Wine.Musings

Over the last two weekends I had the opportunity to attend the The Grandes Pagos de España workshop run by my favourite West London Wine School. Grandes Pagos de España is an association of 32 wineries, led by passionate winemakers, dedicated to expressing the true character of their estates’ terroir and traditions. Each wine speaks of the land it came from and the people the people that made it; character in every drop.

My key takeaways:

• Small parcels are making a comeback. Many of the GPE winemakers are embracing the differences between parcels, vinifying and ageing grapes separately to create blends that fully represent the terroir.
• Everyone is experimenting with ageing techniques. Many winemakers are moving away from heavy oak towards stainless steel or concrete eggs to help better express the character of their wines. This is not a new trend generally, but most GPE winemakers overindex on this.
• It’s inspiring to see the passion winemakers have for their land and communities. From creating employment in disappearing villages, to bringing biodiversity to their estates, to embracing organic and biodynamic practices – many conscious choices are being made to produce wine harmoniously with the surrounding environment.
• It’s clearly time for me to go wine-tasting in Rioja & Ribera del Duero.  

The standouts:

• Aalto (Ribera del Duero): Aalto (2021, 100% Tempranillo) is a thing of grace. On the nose: leather, blackberry, raspberry, plum, clove, violet. Beautiful palate with a similar profile as the nose. Fine tannins and high acidity. Blend of 9 distinct plots with different characteristics, separate vinification, and ageing. Like a perfect match. Retailing from Focus Wines for £37. 4.4/5
• Abadia Retuerta (Abadia Retuerta): Pago Negralada (2017, 100% Tempranillo) is a flagship wine from one of the most renowned pagos in Spain. On the nose: blackberry, black plum, clove, eucalyptus, coffee. Rich, dark, and pleasant. On the palate: tobacco, smoke, leather. Smooth tannins. 16 months in French oak. Like Maria Callas. Retailing for £55 from The Great Wine. 4.4/5
• Mas Doix (Priorat): Salanques (2021, 70% Garnacha, 20% Carinena, 10% Syrah) is a stunner. On the nose: dark, black plum, blackcurrant. On the palate: unexpectedly bright and fresh; some more red fruit character (cherry), definite herbal character (basil, lavender, eucalyptus), subtle oak (cedar). An inviting depth. 12-14 months ageing in both new and used barrels. Like falling into a black hole and not wanting to get out. Unfortunately sold out at the Wine Society, but was a very reasonable £36. 4.2/5
• Losada (Bierzo): we tried their elegant Godello (2023, 100% Godello). White flowers, pears, saltiness, minerality. High acidity. Slightly savoury finish. Comparable to an Albariño, but more delicate and linear. Like a sailor’s wife waiting on the seashore. Retailing for £16 from Decantalo. 4.1/5

The ones to watch:

• Sei Solo (Ribera del Duero): a promising  young wine-maker producing dark and elegant Tempranillos, aged in old oak. We tasted the Preludio (2021, 100% Tempranillo). On the nose: raspberry, plum, great concentration. Savoury palate: olives, rosemary, leather, smoke. Great acidic structure. Slightly bitter finish. Like a handsome Spaniard. Retailing for £26+ from Decantalo, depending on vintage and size. 4.1/5.
• Alta Alella (Cava): gorgeous salty, mineral sparkling made with an intense focus on organic viticulture. We tasted the Mirgin Opus Brut Nature (2019, 60% Chardonnay, 40% Pansa Blanca). On the nose: white peach, blossom, not a lot of toast. On the palate: fresh acidity, saltiness, even a mineral character. A cold sparkling joy. Retailing for £46 from Vinissimus.4.1/5
• Bodegas Alvear (Montilla-Moriles): Perhaps not a wine for the faint of heart, but Tres Miradas Cerro Franco (2021, 100% Pedro Ximenez) is fantastic for interesting pairings. It is essentially an unfortified sherry and it acts like one. On the nose: baked apple and pear, biscuits, nuts. On the palate: apples, lemon rind, saltiness, and breadiness. Fermented in amphorae (tinajas) and rested 8 months with a year veil (flor). Tastes like a fino sherry, but is only 13%. Like eating an apple while walking the cliffs. Unfortunately, I can’t find it in retail. 4.1/5

Here is a quick overview of the (still amazing) rest:

• Fillaboa (Rias Baixas): structured Albarinos made for ageing.
• Astobiza (Arabako Txakolina): richer, fuller bodied Txakolis, aged in concrete eggs.
• Finca Montepedroso (Rueda): non-oaked Verdejos, green and fresh.
• Belondrade (Rueda): oaked chateau-style Verdejos, voluptuous and gastronomic.
• Fuentes del Silencio (Castilla y Léon): indigenous grapes (namely Mencia), revived and showing their true character.
• Vinedos Alonson del Yerro (Ribera del Duero): French-influenced, powerful, oak-aged Tempranillos.
• Bodega Numanthia (Toro): more refined, fresh, and acidic than pre-LVMH takeover vintages of this rich Tinta del Toro.
• Finca Valpiedra (Rioja): fruit-forward Rioja style, based on carefully selected clones.
• Valenciso (Rioja): elegant Riojas full of tertiary flavours and savouriness.
• Secastilla (Somontano): elegant fruit-led Garnachas.
• Bodega Ribas (Mallorca): indigenous Mallorcan varieties brought to life.
• Can Ràfols dels Caus (Penedés): producing round, yet fresh whites from Xarel.lo and heirloom varieties.
• Clos d’Agon (Catalunya): French varietals grown on Spanish soils; think of an interpretation of northern Rhone
• Cėrvoles (Costers del Segre): bright and vivid mountainous Garnachas
• Finca Élez (Finca Élez): one of the first two pagos named in Spain, producing higher altitude Chardonnays and Tempranillos
• Vallegarcía (Vallegarcía): a pago producing grippy Garnacha-Carinena blends (a twist on Priorat) and the first in Spain to plant Viognier
• Dehesa de Carrizal (Dehesa de Carrizal): a pago producing elegant Cab Savs; the vintage we tried was completely atypical, but very interesting
• Marqués de Griñón (Valdepusa): smooth Cab Savs from one of the first two pagos in Spain
• Enrique Mendoza (Alicante):vibrant Monstrell, vinified in a much lighter way than what you’d typically have
• Finca Sandoval (Manchuela): fascinating savoury Syrah (think: tapenade, smoke, and olives)
• Mustiguillo (Pago de Terrarazo): some of the best expressions of Bobal, concentrated and fruity
• Cortijo Los Aguilares (Sierras de Malaga): making in Pinot Noir in Andalucia… crazy
• Finca Moncloa (Vino de la Tierra de Cadiz): Tintilla de Rota (aka Graciano) produced in uniquely suited conditions
• Palacio Quemado (Ribera del Guadiana): Portuguese grape varieties, produced in a fresh way
• Valdespino (Jerez-Xeres-Sherry): one of the oldest wineries in Jerez, producing excellent single vineyard (!) sherry

The Grandes Pagos de España workshop will run regularly at West London Wine School. If you are interested in learning more about how terroir expresses itself in Spanish wines, I highly recommend it!