Wine.Musings

After wine tasting in Bordeaux and Champagne, I braced myself for a formal, complicated, and wildly expensive experience in Alsace. Turns out, I was completely wrong. Alsace proved to be welcoming, flexible, and far more approachable than its famous neighbours.

Nestled in the rain shadow of the Vosges, Alsace has everything: half-timbered villages, hilltop castles, Franco-German food that’s the best of both worlds, and — obviously — exceptional wine.

What to drink

Alsace is famous for its whites: Riesling reigns supreme, but Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, and Muscat all have their moment. What I loved most was how distinctly the terroir shines through the grapes. You can try two Grand Crus from neighbouring vineyards, made in exactly the same way, and taste completely different things.

My advice for tasting in Alsace is to let go of any preconceptions you may have. Whether you’ve been scarred by cheap sweet Riesling in your youth, whether the thought of a Gewürztraminer lychee-honey-blossom bomb makes you cringe, or whether the grapiness of a Muscat makes you yawn, you owe it to yourself to try the way these grapes express themselves in their purest Alsatian form.

Alsatian reds (predominantly Pinot Noir) are light and brisk. They are worth a try if you’re curious, but I haven’t tasted any that made me rethink the region’s white-forward reputation.

Where to go

This is by no means an exhaustive list, but here are the three wineries that made my trip:

• Domaine Weinbach is, without a doubt, a top producer in the area. I wasn’t able to pre-book a visit, so we called them on a whim while driving through the area and they kindly squeezed us in. The wood-paneled tasting room located in the chateau was the perfect backdrop for the tasting. I tried 11 different wines, all of exceptional quality, representing the diversity of the Weinbach terroirs. The voluptuous Riesling Alsace Grand Cru ‘Schlossberg’ (2022) was all ripe apricot and mineral tension, while the rounder and creamier Clos des Capucins Cuvée Colette Riesling (2022) showed a softer side of this grape variety. The Pinots Alsace Grand Cru ‘Furstentum’ (2022) — a blend of Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc — was a masterclass in balance and complexity. Very German, despite being very French. Every wine had something to say, and trying them at the source felt like a privilege.
• Emile Beyer, with a tasting room in the picture-perfect village of Eguisheim, is an easy stop for high-quality Alsatian whites. The staff were friendly and knowledgeable without being stuffy, pouring us through a solid selection of their range. The Riesling Alsace Grand Cru ‘Pfersigberg’ (2022) was my favourite, with its balanced nectarine, lemon, and mineral note. The Lieu dit Hohrain Pinot Gris (2022) offered weight and texture with an enticing palate of juicy plum, honey, and blossom.
• Frédéric Mochel is a smaller family-owned winery in northern Alsace and one of my favourite experiences of the trip. Rather than a structured “here’s what you’re gonna taste” approach, our hosts asked what we wanted to try, which resulted in me sampling 12 wines to the incredulity of my family. The Riesling Alsace Grand Cru ‘Altenberg de Bergbieten’ (2021) was everything you could ever want in a Riesling — wax, orange peel, honey, peach, minerals, and an emerging note of petroleum.The Cremant d’Alsace Reserve (2017) was a treat: delicate flowers, yellow apples, and relaxed elegance, it is proof that Alsace sparklings deserve far more attention than they get.

Where to stay

Base yourself in one of the wine route villages — Riquewihr, Eguisheim, or Ribeauvillé are all excellent options. This way you can walk between restaurants and wine bars in the evening without worrying about driving. Most villages are compact and walkable, with accommodations ranging from guesthouses to small hotels.

Where to eat

Let’s be honest: you’re not guaranteed a great meal in France these days, and in popular Alsace you are especially prone to falling into overpriced tourist traps. One place that absolutely delivered was Au P’tit Muntz. Located in the decidedly untouristy village of Muntzenheim, it’s worth the drive or taxi. They serve French classics alongside lighter options, and the wine list is both excellent and reasonable—a rare combination.

Other travel tips

• Pre-booking: Recommended, especially with smaller producers or top estates. Most wineries have online booking systems and respond quickly to emails. It’s far more accessible than I expected.
• Getting around: Most wineries are dotted around the area, so transportation is essential. Either a sober driver or a tour will allow you to make the most of your visit.
• Timing your visit: We went during the Christmas markets, which (unlike Germany) continue after December 25th and completely take over the villages. It’s atmospheric but very busy. If you want a more relaxed experience with easier parking and quieter tasting rooms, avoid late December and early January. Summer is beautiful, but also very busy.
• Duration: a long weekend wine tasting in Alsace is perfect; you can spend longer if you are planning to hike or just want to take it easy.
• Château du Haut-Kœnigsbourg: Worth visiting for the stunning views over the Alsace plain and vineyards, but be warned—parking is a nightmare, especially on weekends and holidays. Arrive early or be prepared to wait.

Happy tasting!